jewels

Glossary of Gems and Jewelry Terms

abalone pearls

Pearls found or commercially grown in an abalone (single shelled mollusk).

acorn beads

Type of antique Venetian glass bead with distinctive vertical ridges.

adularescence

African emerald

Actually a green variety of fluorspar that is mined in South Africa.

African jade

A green-colored, dense variety of garnet.

African trade beads

Derive their name from a past use in parts of Africa as currency. Also known as money beads.

The name agate comes from the Sicilian river formerly called Achates. The Drillo river (modern name of the Achates) is still a major source of this form of chalcedony. Early civilizations, including the ancient Egyptians, used agate for seals and protective talismans. Earlier civilizations created eye beads by carving a hole through an agate disc to symbolize the lens of an eye.

alexandrite

Discovered in the Ural Mountains in 1830 on the birthday of Czar Alexander, which explains its name. It is valuable because of its rarity and because it contains crystals that, because of their light-absorbing qualities, cause the stones to change colors under different lighting.

An alloy that is used as a substitute for silver. It is made primarily of copper that is mixed with nickel, tin and zinc.

Not a stone, but rather tree sap that has become fossilized. It is cut, polished and treated as a valuable gemstone, especially when a piece contains a preserved insect. There are two varieties: Butterscotch (found in Eastern Europe) and Brown (found primarily in Siberia).

Its name comes from Greek meaning "not drunk," which stems from a belief that the purple (wine colored) stone could relieve hangovers. This stone is commonly used in necklaces, pendants, rings and bracelets.

A bi-colored variety of crystalline quartz containing the characteristic colors of both citrine and amethyst.

Amorphous means without form and refers to gems such as amber, ivory or jet which don't have a formal internal structure. Opposite of crystalline gems.

Any object worn with the belief that it bestows good fortune or wards off misfortune.

Appears in a range from light to dark blue or blue-green stone and, in its highest quality, is transparent. It literally means "sea water" and it is a harder stone.

Following (moving in the same form as piece it decorates) scrollwork. It typically appears as curlicues in low relief.

This poison forms a very tight, chemical bond when it is used to color glass (or to remove unwanted color from glass) which makes it completely safe to wear.

artificial pearls

An obsolete term replaced by the term "cultured," since artificial implied fake or synthetic. See pearls.

A style which features non-natural elements such as sharp angled, geometric shapes, bold colors, molded or faceted beads, as well as the use of chrome and plastics.

art nouveau

Also known as "Victorian" or "Edwardian." This style features fluid lines, natural colors, and natural, particularly floral, themes.

A star-like light effect that is usually only seen in cabochons.

aurora borealis

Refers to iridescent, faceted glass beads.

Australian jade

See chrysoprase.

A quartzite gemstone, usually comes in green (containing mica) or blue (containing cobalt).

Awabi pearl

Japanese name for abalone pearls.

Beads or rounded stones or glass that are irregularly shaped.

A reddish-brown gemstone which is actually an ore of aluminum. It is found in tropical climates such as Nigeria. Because of it coloring, some African cultures revere it as a symbol of life's force.

A pearl necklace consisting of multiples of twisted strands.

A finding to which solid beads or stones are glued to make pendants.

An important mineral species that includes aquamarine and emerald.

A thin strip of metal which secures a gemstone on a piece of jewelry; the sloping facets on a brilliant cut gemstone.

A bead with ends that taper off to cones.

A gemstone that designates a wearer's month of birth.

Refers to a method of cutting gemstones with facets designed to enhance their light reflecting capacity.

A variety of quartz called chalcedony. It exists in different shades of green with red and brown spots caused by iron minerals. The spots look like drops of blood.

Bohemian crystal

Glass that has been hardened by adding lead.

Bohemian glass

Glass made in Bohemia, formerly a country in Eastern Europe, which is now part of the Czech Republic.

A term for industrial grade diamonds.

A manufactured (synthetic) gem created by a molten mixture that cools and hardens after being poured into a tear-shaped mold.

Brazilian aquamarine

An alternate name for blue topaz.

Brazilian rock quartz

A gemstone quality variety of quartz found in Brazil.

An oval or pear-shaped diamond with a surface of triangular facets.

A highly polished gemstone with a dome top and no faceting.

cabochon cut

A smooth, rounded cut which does not contain any planes (facets).

A raised design or figure that is cut out of a gemstone.

A long rod of glass or clay (with or without a pattern) that is used to make beads.

A unit of measurement for weighing gemstones; one carat is equal to .2 grams (note that this term is NOT the same as karat, see below).

A red or brown gemstone that is a variety of chalcedony.

Refers to the technique of reproducing an object in metal from a wax model.

cathedral ring

See cathedral setting.

cathedral setting

A metal band with an arch design that is similar to cathedral arches.

Any type of quartz which has a cloudy, noncrystalline appearance such as agate. Its common colors are blue-gray, white (cream), and red-brown.

A difficult bead pattern that features layering white, red, and blue glass.

A short, collar length necklace.

chrysoprase

Refers to a type of chalcedony consisting of a bright green shade that is created by its nickel content. It is a popular choice for use for beads, cameos and cabochons. The highest quality chrysoprase is found in parts of Australia which explains why it is also called Australian jade.

A brilliant mineral of red or vermillion that is often used as a red pigment and which is particularly valued in China where it is frequently used for inlays and in jewelry. The mineral comes from mercury ore.

A type of crystalline quartz which has a color range from pale yellow to a deep orange yellow or brown yellow and also appears from opaque to translucent. This stone is sometimes created by treating amethysts with heat.

claddagh ring

An Irish ring depicting two clasped hands.

Describes the process of filling thin wire partitions (cloisonnes in French) with enamel.

cobalt glass

Glass colored with cobalt to create a deep blue color.

Describes the calcified skeletons of marine organisms that live along coastlines of a variety of salt water bodies such as the Western Mediterranean, Japan, several island groups, and the Red Sea.

Corundum is an aluminum oxide, which is called a ruby when red and sapphire in other colors (including lighter shades of red). The different colors are caused by the presence of chrome, iron, titanium, etc.

cranberry carnelian beads

A rare, antique Venetian glass bead which acquires a true red color by dissolving gold into glass.

See lead crystal.

cubic zirconia (or CZ)

Synthetic (artificially created) zircon, commonly used to imitate diamonds.

cultured pearls

Czech glass

See Bohemian glass.

demi-parure

Matching jewelry containing two or three pieces. See also parure.

An inclusion pattern shaped like a tree or fern.

A diadem is a tiara, a circular or semi-circular piece of jewelry worn on the head.

dogon donuts

Disc beads made from old Dutch cobalt glass by the Dogon, a tribe in Mali, Africa.

dream beads

A pattern of Venetian glass beads, which features colors and gold particles that appear to be suspended within.

Dutch glass

Beads produced by Dutch traders for commerce, but, because of differences in production, the beads were less durable and colorful than Venetian glass.

The proper mineral name for tourmaline. This mineral is named from its original place of origin, Elba Island.

A long, elbow-shaped, Venetian glass bead that was last produced in the 1700s.

Emerald (Greek "green stone"), a hard but brittle gemstone, is the most valuable form of beryl. Colors range from various shades of green, blue green, or yellow green. Colombia is an important source of this gemstone.

Where color substances, melted in a kiln, are used to decorate metal, including metal beads.

Refers to creating a pattern (including writing) on metal.

This pattern, also known as the "evil eye" bead, is eldest of bead patterns that were worn for good luck. See agate.

A small, flat, polished surface on a gemstone.

Cutting a gemstone with a number of flat planes to enhance light reflection. The opposite of cabochon cut.

feather bead

Glass beads decorated with a featherlike pattern, which originated in Venice, Italy.

See Claddagh Ring.

Refers to any jewelry that is designed to look like real objects such as animals, baskets, flowers, humans, etc.

A method for producing delicate, detailed patterns in metal, particularly clasps and bead caps.

Refers to fasteners and construction components that are used in making jewelry.

Italian name for a rose bead. See rose bead.

floater necklace

A bead necklace that uses wide bead spacing and very thin string or line in order to create the effect that the bead(s) are floating.

Thin metal leaf (typically gold or silver) that is used as a backing for imitation gemstones or faceted glass. Foil enhances brilliance and color.

Four "C"s, the

Refers to the major characteristics in determining the value of a gemstone (usually a diamond): cut, carat (weight), clarity (presence of flaws), and color.

French ambassador beads

Special, knee-length necklaces given to France's ambassadors during the reign of Louis XIV.

French Ivory

Trademark name for granular surfaces celluloid, porcelain or plastic that is used to imitate ivory tusk.

full-lead crystal

A higher quality. brilliant crystal that contains at least 30% lead oxide.

A variety of spinel, bluish in color, having a high zinc content.

A gallery is a decoratively perforated metal strip that is either open or closed. Open versions are often modified by jewelers to become gemstone settings.

A gemstone with grain-shaped crystals. It comes in a wide range of colors from black to clear, though its most commonly marketed variety is red.

A precious stone (or pearl) that is suitable to be cut or polished for use in jewelry.

German silver

See nickel silver.

To cover an object with a thin layer of gold.

givre beads

From the French word for frost, they are transparent glass beads that are merged around a translucent core.

A thin layer of melted glass used for decoration and/or protection.

gold filled

Refers to jewelry containing a common metal such as nickel that is coated with gold.

hand-knotted

Refers to beads which are strung separately with a knot tied between each bead. This method of stringing creates a more durable strand and reduces wear and tear on the beads.

Short wires that are used for threading beads onto earrings or pendants.

See bloodstone.

Refers, generally, to a yellow, orange, brown, golden-brown, or reddish-brown form of (natural) zircon.

Any foreign mineral or substance "included" within a gemstone. Though generally considered to be flaws, they sometimes enhance the value of certain gems.

India glass

Glass beads from India.

invisible necklace

Ssee floater necklace.

A blue gemstone named from "ios," which is Greek for violet. Historically used by Vikings to shield their eyes from the sun during sea voyages.

iridescent glass

Glass mixed with arsenic (which safely bonds to glass) to create a rainbow or pearl-like luster.

Describes a thin, air-filled crack within translucent gems that creates iridescence.

A form of nephrite that is treasured in China and is believed to bring good luck as well as having medicinal value.

A variety of chalcedony that is usually striped or spotted. In ancient times it was used in seals and to ward off drought.

jasperized wood

Petrified wood. It is wood that has fossilized (where the original wood has been replaced with minerals, resulting in a stone-like wood replica).

jelly belly

A piece of jewelry that has a center made from glass (or clear lucite).

A carbon mineral (lignite coal) that, when cut into facets, has the stunning appearance of a black diamond.

Glass pigmented (colored) with coal.

Job's tears

Refers to the incredibly hard seeds derived from a variety of wild, tropical grass plant. The seeds (white) are transformed into jewelry by a process of drying, coloring and polishing. Typically, they're used to make bracelets and necklaces.

Any small wire ring for connecting or suspending a piece of jewelry.

Refers to an alloy's gold content; 14 karat describes a content of roughly 60% or greater, while "pure" or 18 karat gold, surprisingly, may have as little as 75% gold content. (Not to be confused with the term, carat; see above.)

keeper ring

A ring that is worn with another, more valuable ring. It's placed on the finger after the first ring as a safeguard against loss (slipping off finger).

Refers to a sapphire that appears from yellow to yellow-brown.

Is a type of spodumene that has a lilac-pink color.

General reference to any gem that is manufactured rather than natural.

lampworked glass

Any glass that is hand-shaped from glass canes or tubes which are held over flames. The name came from the fact that the glass was originally (1700s) formed in flames from oil lamps.

Refers to cutting, shaping, polishing precious and semi-precious stones in order to create jewelry. This term is also used to refer to persons who perform these skilled tasks.

A very soft, beautiful, royal blue stone. It is commonly associated with royalty and often appears with bits of calcite (white) or pyrite (gold).

Refers to pendants, gemstones that dangle from a neck chain.

lead crystal

High-quality glass that contains a minimum amount of lead oxide. The higher the lead oxide content, the higher the quality of crystal.

See metallic leaf.

Refers to a cabochon (smooth, no facets) cut stone where the upper and bottom portions are identical.

lobster claw clasp

A spring-loaded jewelry fastener that looks like a lobster claw. It is used to attach separate pieces or separate ends of jewelry or accessories together.

A type of magnifying glass used by jewelry professionals to examine gemstones, particularly diamonds.

A copper mineral with a pattern of dark green and yellow bands. Historically, it was believed to ward off evil or to attract financial success.

Maltese cross

A cross whose four equal-length arms become wider the farther they get from the center.

A form of iron pyrite with a shiny appearance, typically has a faceted surface.

A misleading term for what is actually blue glass.

matinee-length

A single strand necklace with a length of between 22 to 23 inches (56 to 58 cm), a length.

maw-sit-sit

A rare gemstone. It is green with dark veins (ranging from deeper green to black) and, sometimes, white spots. It may appear translucent to opaque.

A small (under .20 carat) diamond.

metallic leaf

Extremely thin sheets that are made from rolled or pounded copper, gold, platinum or silver. Leaf is used for applying to base metal surfaces.

Describes a stone that has its upper and lower portions cut in two different styles.

mokume-gane

A Japanese metal-work technique that gives precious metals a wood-like appearance.

A rare, glassy, translucent, dark green gemstone that is made of a mineral that is similar to silica. It is rock material that was fused during the impact of a meteorite.

molded cameo

Cameos created by molding rather than carving. Usually is made from pouring glass, plastic or porcelain into a decorative mold.

money beads

See African trade beads.

A feldspar gemstone featuring adularescence, which describes a sheen that appears to float within a stone.

mother-of-pearl

A literal reference to the iridescent inner lining of a pearl oyster shell.

Found in Australia, it is a variety of jasper that ranges in color from pink to reddish brown and has gold and white bands

Italian word for the dust (usually gold) suspended in glass.

The Burmese name for high quality (translucent) jadeite.

A form of jade, appearing in darker shades of green, that was originally found and used in China.

A form of onyx that is used as a surface for engraving.

Glass that is formed by lava that rapidly cools. Name is derived from its discovery by a Roman named Obsius.

A banded variety of quartz that ranges from translucent to opaque and appears in a color range from orange to brown which alternates with straight white bands. This gemstone is commonly dyed to create black onyx.

A gemstone that is a variety of quartz which may appear with a rainbow luster (precious opal) or reddish-orange in color (fire opal).

padre beads

See prayer beads.

Matching jewelry containing three or more pieces such as a necklace, choker, brooch, earrings, bracelet, and ring. Also see demi-parure.

Refers to jewelry made with glass that is cut to imitate faceted gemstones.

A pearl is created when a mollusk secretes layers of calcium carbonate around an irritant that has entered its shell. When this happens by chance, the pearl is "natural." Cultured pearls are made when the irritant is intentionally placed in the shell.

perfumed beads

Treating beads to release a fragrance as they are warmed by the body.

A transparent stone that appears as green or olive green.

Inlaying of gold or silver into genuine tortoise shell, ivory or horn.

A soft, heavy, gray metal that can be highly polished. At times platinum has a higher value than gold.

A black variety of spinel.

prayer beads

Glass beads which are used in rosaries.

A very dark, purplish variety of garnet.

A very common mineral made of silicon dioxide which is found in any color. Varieties include: agate, amethyst, bloodstone, and a host of other gemstones.

quincite opal

See quinzite opal.

quinzite opal

Pink to reddish-colored opal.

White glass in a delicate, lattice (crisscrossed diagonal) pattern.

Rounded, doughnut-shaped disk.

Beads with a chevron pattern that are used in cardinal's rosaries.

Rose-shaped bead pattern which originated in Venice.

See quinzite opal.

rose quartz

A deep red quartz that, traditionally, should be reserved as a gift to one's true love.

Tiny round beads often used as spacers or separators.

rutilated quartz

Quartz which contains yellowish crystals which range from opaque to transparent.

Glass beads made from casting powdered or pulverized glass in sand, resulting in a granular finish.

satina bead

Bohemian glass beads with a satinlike finish.

Refers to any gemstone that is cut in the shape of a beetle.

A pale green translucent gemstone that looks very similar to alabaster and jade. It is commonly used as a jade substitute (often fraudulently).

simulated pearl

Consists of a stone nucleus surrounded by layers of plastic "nacre."

smoky quartz

spessartite

An orangish or reddish variety of garnet.

A mineral which resembles corundum, especially red spinel which has been mistaken for a ruby.

A mineral consisting of aluminum silicate and lithium and comes in the shape of prisms.

sterling silver

An alloy combination of roughly 90% silver and the remainder of copper and/or zinc which strengthens the silver, making it more suitable for use in jewelry and silverware.

A mineral called blue zoisite that ranges from pale blue to reddish-brown. It is named after Tanzania, the country where it is mined.

Tiger's eye

A black quartz stone that, due to staining from iron oxide, contains yellow and golden brown stripes.

Generally a citrine or smoky quartz which has been heated, resulting in color from yellow to brown.

torchworked glass

See lampworked glass.

A family of gems which ranges from transparent to opaque and which exists in a very large number of colors.

A gemstone which name means "Turkish stone."

uranium glass

See Vaseline glass.

A very small, green-colored type of garnet that, because of its small size, is rarely used, so is popular with collectors.

A type of jasper, appearing as a yellow-flecked, brown gem.

Vaseline glass

Refers to green or yellow glass that looks like Vaseline ointment and which, under ultra-violet light, glows. Also known as uranium glass since it was originally made with small amounts of uranium.

A light to medium green quartz that is created by carefully treating amethyst with heat.

Refers to gilding a silver bead.

Verneuil process

Refers to the method used to create boules. See boule.

water sapphire

A silver-colored gold caused by the presence of nickel, platinum or zinc.

white hearts

A core of white, wound glass found in the center of red eye and cranberry carnelian beads.

See African jade.

A form of obsidian that originates from California.

xalostocite

A grossular formation of pink garnet that is found within white marble. Named after Xalostoc, Mexico, its place of origin.

xyloid jasper

See jasperized wood.

Short for yttrium aluminum garnet. It is a lower luster, man-made diamond.

A zinc alloy containing small amounts of aluminum and copper.

zerfass emerald

Glass dyed green to simulate emerald.

zinc spinel

Natural gemstones that, in colorless variety, are very similar in appearance to diamonds, though are much softer and are easily scratched. Also come in brown and green and, if heated, can appear in blue or golden shades.

See cubic zirconia.